91: full moon

Posted on November 1, 2009
Filed Under Surfing | Leave a Comment

the crowds are at the beach, sunlight with the fall slant.
looks like it’s a decent sized swell, well overhead; filled in overnight.
halloween hangover, oh boy, we go. time to be humbled.
dreamy haze in the golden light, hanging low at beach level.
not as tough a paddle as it looked.
long lulls, there is time to take it all in.
dolphin pod gliding lazily by, mother with baby. real close. I can hear their breathing.
jumbled, mixed, building swell. you have to be picky, but there are a few good ones.
rip moving out and to the north.
full moon rises above the hill.
hillside on fire with the sunset, looks like italy with buildings pink on the hillside and church spires and trees. giant yellow moon above.
confidence builds, take a steep one and miss a section, tossed. board hits me in the foot as I go over the falls and dings board good.
sun dips, time to leave.
giant tidepool blazing orange, upside-down chihuahaus skittering along.
beach fires blazing, laughter.
conga drums, a fire dancer, the beach is alive this evening.
up the hill and home.