069: punch junk

Posted on July 19, 2009
Filed Under Surfing | Leave a Comment

between vfw’s and kelly’s for a couple of hours. summertime slop, but with some punch, and I saw a guy get a legit barrel. in and out on an inside bar, pretty thick lip even. I had a couple fun ones; sloppy kind of like back home only with tons more power… fully shortboard-able. no fish or longboard needed. for some odd reason I tend to surf better when it’s small and shitty. it’s like it doesn’t matter or something, and it’s what I’m more used to being from the east coast.

the fog has arrived. for real this time. kinda dismal. they warned us. it took ten months but it’s here now. not complaining though, we’ve had a real good run of sun, and the surf just keeps on coming.