050: fitty!

Posted on February 28, 2009
Filed Under Surfing | Leave a Comment

fifty days in the water out of about 180 days since moving here. not bad, considering the workload at the agency over the past several months. having waves as handy as this has been a true gift for an east coaster like me. the rawness and beauty of this part of the northern coast never fails to impress and humble me.
still battling a cough and weird throat thing. hell with it, into the water! late afternoon, windless and a glassy sea laying beneath a lowering sky. incredible range of greys and umbers, warm and cool and shifting. the sun peeks through, low and weakly. but this is the end of the long rains. the waves are breaking nicely, if not a little small at around waist high, with the occasional bigger set. a few nice ones and a lot of coughing. the clouds move out later that night and the sky is clear and cold.