049: a familiar sight

Posted on February 21, 2009
Filed Under Surfing | Leave a Comment


photo by Matt Kurvin

this view is one I have seen quite a bit over the last several months, as it is the closest break to the apartment. the beach was working today. the sky came on grey as I watched from the roof and wasted time until I had a enough energy for a paddle out. a flu-like malaise has sapped me all week, preventing a couple pre-work sessions that should have been mine. today is glassy and shoulder high to a foot overhead on the sets, rolling in out of the grey. not perfect shape, but still some nice ones nestled in there. even on a grey day there is still such a wide range of colors and tones. warm greys. cool greys. silver on the water. sitting lulled and musing on these things… a sneaky set will roll down on top of in and remind you where you are.

Comments

Leave a Reply