050: fitty!
Posted on February 28, 2009
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Photo by Illinills
fifty days in the water out of about 180 days since moving here. not bad, considering the workload at the agency over the past several months. having waves as handy as this has been a true gift for an east coaster like me. the rawness and beauty of this part of the northern coast never fails to impress and humble me.
still battling a cough and weird throat thing. hell with it, into the water! late afternoon, windless and a glassy sea laying beneath a lowering sky. incredible range of greys and umbers, warm and cool and shifting. the sun peeks through, low and weakly. but this is the end of the long rains. the waves are breaking nicely, if not a little small at around waist high, with the occasional bigger set. a few nice ones and a lot of coughing. the clouds move out later that night and the sky is clear and cold.
“Linda Lee” by Adrian Carroll
Posted on February 26, 2009
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kickass works on paper by A.C.
Indian Superman
Posted on February 26, 2009
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Yay Hooray | Make Something Cool Everyday
Posted on February 22, 2009
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049: a familiar sight
Posted on February 21, 2009
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photo by Matt Kurvin
this view is one I have seen quite a bit over the last several months, as it is the closest break to the apartment. the beach was working today. the sky came on grey as I watched from the roof and wasted time until I had a enough energy for a paddle out. a flu-like malaise has sapped me all week, preventing a couple pre-work sessions that should have been mine. today is glassy and shoulder high to a foot overhead on the sets, rolling in out of the grey. not perfect shape, but still some nice ones nestled in there. even on a grey day there is still such a wide range of colors and tones. warm greys. cool greys. silver on the water. sitting lulled and musing on these things… a sneaky set will roll down on top of in and remind you where you are.
♥ ♥ ♥
Posted on February 20, 2009
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ON ANY SUNDAY
Posted on February 20, 2009
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Benoit Paille
Posted on February 18, 2009
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048: linda mar
Posted on February 16, 2009
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stormy stormy. raining for days now. south storm winds. city pointbreaks not looking good, tide to full. ocean beach is a mess, and the road is closed for the bike race. lance armstrong rode by within a block of my house and I didn’t drag my lazy ass out of bed in time to see. well, want to get wet. it’s offshore and not breaking too bad at Linda Mar. cold winds, rainsqualls. not great surf but a few to be had. funny (and friendly) scene there, too with the oddball local crew in the lot. musubi, fried mahi mahi, and a hot cocoa at L&L across the street after the session. ono grinds!
047: steamer lane
Posted on February 7, 2009
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late in the day. ocean beach is blown out. mad dash to santa cruz. minus tide, lowest I’ve ever seen and the lane is doing it’s thing. lots of guys out. middle peak is way in the middle. indicators is working. sky is clear again. so many people. few shorter ones. someone drops in. frustration. then it is clear, a nice big set that makes it all worth it. sun goes down, near full moon. crowd thins.
darkness and silver moonlight on the harbor. more consistent sets. sea lions barking loud. a couple more and then it is hard to see the outside waves. see a longboarder lose his board, flipping up on the wave in the moonlight. long swim for him, tough luck. I’ve been there. take a wave in, kick out near the surfer statue. what’s that headed for the holes in the cliff at indicators? a longboard. broken leash. so, he wasn’t a leashless soul surfer. quick decision: help him or let it go? those damn lonboarders had been snaking me all evening. do the right thing. get his board. can’t control both without letting mine go and paddling his. paddle back to him in the dark, he’s still swimming.
“lose something?”
“what!? lost my damn board, what’s it look like?”
“I have it here for you”
“oh!”
I send him his board.
“sorry, I didn’t see that you had it. Thanks so much!”
then the long dark ride north on highway 1.
keep looking »