033: Drifting…

Posted on November 21, 2008
Filed Under Surfing | Leave a Comment

Long session… almost four hours. Drifted from VFWs all the way down to near Kelly’s. Decisions, decisions… tide was full, but waves were clean, if not a little mushy. Wait for lower tide? Risk onshores? nah, get on it. surfed some soft walls, still had push. then tide drained. onshores never came. tired, but too good to leave. one left in particular, suck-out, bigger set wave. drop in, pig dog style, rail grab and hold on. lip feathering, in the pocket. ridiculously good. climb out as tired as can be.