030: November Summer

Posted on November 16, 2008
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wow. knew the swell was coming, but was blown away by how good this was. angled NW energy marching in. head high to head and a half on the bigger sets. offshore winds had started on friday. northern version of the santa ana winds which are blasting socal and fanning the fires. shaping the swell here into beauties. sunny, warm and 80. hours and hours in the water. a little intimidating at first, bigger sets rolling in, strong rip. waves really opening up, steep. crowded, too. find a relatively thinly worked peak down from VFWs. a little while before pulling the trigger, then woah! steepest, hollowest, most powerful waves since a few years ago at hawaii. pull in, wall stretching out, rocket out and can’t stop smiling. paddle back for more again and again until arms don’t work. give up trying to fight the drift. don’t realize how far down the beach, takes about 15 minutes to walk back. tailgate and watch for a while, then meet the girl for burgers and a beer at the beach chalet, which is right across the street, beer garden in the sun. bar and beach is packed, everyone is there. quite a scene. sun is setting and the fires start, still warm. magical. going to have to remember this next time it is foggy for a week straight.

oh and it’s 30… yes, friends, we’ve hit that milestone. 30 days of surfing since arriving in california at the end of August. that’s not a bad average, one day out of three in the water, many days with multiple sessions.