013: Small and punchy

Posted on September 15, 2008
Filed Under Surfing | Comments Off

Smallest surf yet since moving here, but still some sneaker sets in the chest high range. Some of the sets had me wishing I had my fish to ride (I left the fish on the East Coast), but the larger sets (chest high) were very much short-boardable. But this is the first time I’ve missed it, which is saying a lot; I rode the fish more than any board I have back home. Sun finally poked through after several grey days. A utility session, if you will.