Chilly surf

Posted on March 16, 2008
Filed Under Surfing | Leave a Comment

Some decent surf the past couple days, and the forecast looks good all week for us here in the Northeast. It was grey and gloomy and the raw north wind was on it somewhat this weekend; and that’s 36 degree water you’re looking at. Some snow swirling around made it feel even colder. The ice-cream headaches on duck-dives and hold downs are brutal, and even with the best wetsuit, after a while you are just plain cold. But that’s all part of surfing in New England.

Some of the boys paddled out at this secret spot. Getting in and out of the water is a bitch, since there is no clear entry or exit. Boards get damaged there a lot and today was no exception. I was concerned about the tide coming in fast, so I headed out of town to a heavy, hollow beachbreak with some other lads. We all got barreled, and we all took our licks. I was driven into the sand so hard I have a swollen knee and it actually broke the skin through the wetsuit- 6mm of neoprene. Good times.